From European policy to action: María Luisa Martínez Díez on climate policies, implementation and the Global Fashion Summit
With extensive experience in working with Public Affairs in Paris, Madrid and Brussels, María Luisa Martínez Díez joined Global Fashion Agenda back in 2019. Martínez Díez has previously led the agri-consumers department at the Brussels-based consultancy EURALIA, working in the fields of circular economy and sustainability in the supply chains including the fashion and food industries. At Global Fashion Agenda, Martínez Díez is responsible for strengthening, developing, and executing GFA’s Policy Engagement Strategy as well as ensuring strategic engagement with relevant stakeholders and develop partnerships with key organisations.
In your eyes, given the global political landscape, what is on the textile industry’s agenda right now?
"The textile industry is currently focused on navigating the evolving global political landscape. The context is very interesting both at the EU-level and globally following the 2024 elections at the European Parliament, in the US, and in many other key geographies. At the EU-level, the second von der Leyen Commission is implementing bold climate policies under the Green Deal, with the Clean Industrial Deal promoting decarbonization as a growth driver for industries, including textiles. Initiatives like the Affordable Energy Action Plan and Circular Economy Act aim to reduce costs and waste. However, these climate policies face political resistance due to a more fragmented European Parliament.
In the U.S., textile policy combines trade-driven regulations and state-led sustainability initiatives. Tariffs on apparel imports are reshaping supply chains, while nearshoring incentives promote regional production. The Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act enforces stricter import controls, and states like New York and California are advancing transparency laws focused on emissions and ethical sourcing. Interest in textile Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes is growing, with Washington and California exploring these initiatives.
Globally, textile-producing nations are under pressure to align with EU and U.S. climate regulations, reshaping supply chains. China is advancing its Five-Year Textile Plan to enhance sustainability through greener manufacturing and digitalization. India is expanding sustainable practices with incentive programs and cotton farming reforms. In South America, Brazil and Chile are integrating EPR regulations into circular economy strategies, while Mexico is developing a national sustainability framework. These advancements are driving the global textile industry into a new era of compliance-driven innovation."
Being in the center of the EU policy framework, have you noticed an industry shift since the introduction of the EPR? How?
"Since the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for textiles under the revised Waste Framework Directive, the industry has generally welcomed this move as a crucial step toward promoting sustainable design and production. EPR is seen as a tool to enhance accountability and drive circularity, especially when combined with upcoming ecodesign measures under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.
However, challenges remain. The flexibility for Member States to design their national EPR systems risks fragmentation and inconsistencies, potentially leading to double payment of fees and administrative burdens for cross-border producers. Initiatives like the T2T Alliance and the voluntary Textile EPRForum by EURATEX aim to address these issues by fostering alignment and sharing best practices among Producer Responsibility Organisations (PROs).
Concerns about infrastructure readiness persist, as the mandatory separate collection obligation from January 2025 will increase the volume of post-consumer textiles. Collection and sorting capacities are insufficient in many Member States, risking valuable materials being lost to incineration or landfill. Civil society actors emphasize the need for transparency, traceability, and circular business models within EPR design. A harmonized approach, supported by strong governance, stakeholder dialogue, and infrastructure investment, is essential for EPR to effectively drive sustainable change in the textile sector."
For the upcoming Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, what do you expect to be on top of the agenda for the participating brands and supply chain partners?
"At the Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025, the theme "Barriers and Bridges" will spotlight the industry's challenges and opportunities for transformation. Participating brands and supply chain partners are expected to focus on balancing regulatory compliance with innovation to ensure sustainability remains financially viable. Key topics will include climate adaptation strategies to mitigate environmental risks and collaborative models to drive systemic change, bridging gaps between stakeholders.
The Summit will emphasize bold leadership, encouraging brands to move beyond incremental improvements. With new legislation on the horizon, businesses must rethink their circular economy strategies. The ability to scale sustainable solutions while maintaining profitability will be crucial, with material innovation and ethical production offering new pathways for responsible growth. Brands will need to navigate shifting consumer expectations alongside economic pressures, with supply chain transparency remaining central to achieving measurable impact.
The Summit aims to be a pivotal moment for fashion’s sustainable transformation, advocating for collaboration, continuous learning, open communication, and agility. While the path forward may not be linear, sustainability must be the unifying thread."
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